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12 Sep

I’ve been requested this baby in December of last year. I feel it is a masterpiece the direct result of procrastination. I actually started him at the beginning of summer, made his ears and tail somewhere in August, and today, his face! Taylor will be relieved I finally finished. He’s cute. Definitely worth the wait, I think. I had a legitimate reason to take so long on the face, though. I tried out two different ones before this one. I tried twice to make pikachu’s face, but I failed both times. I settled for this minimalist-style face. Actually, I think everyone of his body parts had a draft.

The body is a white sport-weight yarn. The yellow in the tail is a thicker yarn than the black ear tips and brown tail base, but they are both worsted-weight. The eyes and nose are embroidered with the same yarn as the ear tips, and the blush-marks are made with red all-purpose sewing thread.


Claimed by the Sparks!

more flower smellin'

Chillin under the ice vendor

gotta get a shot of his handsome booty, too.

On to the pattern!

Top Tier

1: 7 sc’s in an mr (7)

2: 2 sc’s in each sc (14)

3: *sc, 2 sc in sc* x7 (21)

4:*sc, sc, 2 sc in sc* x7 (28)

5:*sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in sc*x7 (35)

6-10: sc even (35)

2nd tier

1-5 of tier 1

6:*sc, sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in sc* x7 (42)

7:*sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in sc* x7 (49)

8-13: sc even (49)

3rd tier

1-7 of tier two

8: *sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in sc* x7 (56)

9: *sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in sc* x7 (63

10-16: sc even


1-9 of tier three



1: 4 sc in mr (4)

2: 2 sc in each (8)

3: *sc, 2 sc in sc* x4 (12)


4-6: sc even (12)

7: *sc, sc, sc2tog* x3 (9)

8-9 sc even (9)

Tail: (make 2, you’ll sew together for thickness and stiffness)

Ch 9

1-5: sc 8, ch 1, turn

6: sc 5, ch 1, turn

7: sc 5, ch 3, turn

8-10: sc 7, ch 1, turn

11: Slipstitch in 3, sc in 4, ch 1, turn

12: sc 4, ch 1, turn

13: sc 4, ch 3, turn

14-15: sc 6, ch 1, turn

16: sc 3

This will give you pikachu’s lightning tail

The mochi can really be used as a base to make many characters. Have fun with it. You can make a whole mochi series if you want.

Actually, that would be an awesome idea! Someone, do it!

I’m too busy~

I still need to make Russia~

I just can’t get myself to~

I whine too much. I wish I was one of those people that got things done. With efficiency! That would be awesome! I wonder what an efficient me would be like. *shudders* I can only think of a room full of stuffed animals. Oh! I would totally have more money! I should take a class on efficiency. I would go shopping at h&m every weekend. It’s in Scottsdale, though. That’s too far~ Every other weekend. I’ll fill the extra weekends with the local mall. I’m not sure if I could buy something every weekend, though. My closet would look like it barfed.



Cute stripey bag~

8 Aug

It took me about a week to make this bag; I took four days, working perhaps 3 or 4 hours a day, making the bag body (it’s summer. I have time.) and then the rest of the week was lazily making the strap, which I would estimate would only take about 2 and a half hours working harder. Sewing the bag together was rather quick and painless.

I took the main idea and stripes pattern from this URL:

I made some changes to make the bag a bit more me.

This is the pattern for my version, using yarn from naturally Caron. The colors I used were black and an off-white, using 2 and 1 ball respectively. It might be smart to buy 3 balls of yarn just in case, because I could not make the strap with this yarn and had to use a half ball of Simply Soft to finish up.

A stitch you need to know: ldc is short for “long double crochet.” It is created casting your thread over the hook and by reaching forward into the front loop of the stitch indicated by the pattern, pulling a loop through and pulling through two loops twice to complete your ldc.

Bag: Black:

Chain 148. (I like using a chainless base, just as a preference.)

1: Hdc in 3rd chain from hook, and every stitch across.

2:*ch. 2, hdc in every stitch across*

repeat row 2 until you get about 4 1/2 inches tall.

Patterned part:


1: ch 1, sc across

2:ch 1, sc in back loops across.

switch to black.

1: ch 1, sc across

2: ch 1, sc in back loops across.


switch to white.

1: ch 1, sc 1, {ldc in stitch directly three rows below, sc 1, ldc in stitch directly three rows below, sc 5} across,

2: ch 1, sc in back loops across

switch to black.

3: ch 1,  {sc 5, ldc in stitch directly three rows below, sc 1, ldc in stitch directly three rows below} across, sc 1.

4. ch1, sc in back loops across


Repeat from * to * until you run out of white, or approximately 6 1/2 inches tall. bag should be 11 inches tall by now.

Do not do black part of the very last repetition, but do switch to black.

*Ch 2, hdc across* until you have added another 1 1/2 inches to the bag.

bind off.


You have two options for this. A simpler option is to chain 35, and make rows of *ch 1, sc across* until you have a 24-inch strap. That struck me as boring, and I was almost out of black, anyhow.

I had a big ball of worsted weight Simply Soft (the Naturally Caron is a sport weight) laying around.

I also had a book of crochet patterns.

So I created this strap:

Ch. 27

1: first three chains are a dc. skip two after that. [dc twice, ch 1, that stitch again twice] makes a shell. * skip 2 stitches, dc, skip 2, shell* across, skip 2, and dc.


2: ch 1, sc across, including in chains.

3: ch 3, 2 dc in first stitch. ** across, skip 2, dc, skip 2, 3  dc in last stitch.

4: ch 1, sc across including in chains.

5: ch 3, skip 2, shell, ** across, skip 2, dc in last stitch


repeat from { to } until you have a 24-inch long strap.

ch 1, sc across. bind off.

Sew up :

Fold bag piece in half, with wrong side facing out. sew along edge of thickest black piece and along edge.

Take shoulder strap. Sew each end to a side of the bag, aligning center of the strap with crease or seam. Sew onto patterned parts for sturdiness. Take the strap, and about and inch above the edge of the bag fold it in half and sew the seam until you reach about 1 inch above the other side.

Work in all you extra threads, and you’re done.

I hope this was clear enough… I think I’m bad at explaining.

If you have any questions, see the original. You could basically follow the link’s pattern with my altered measurements. Have fun.


Sparky the Dog Pattern

24 Mar

As promised, although a little later than promised, here’s Sparky the Dog. He’s an adorable 5 inches tall when worked in worsted weight yarn (my preference is simply soft) and about 7 inches long. The color requirements for him are a lot of white yarn, a medium amount of brown, and a small amount of black for eyes and a nose. You’ll need a tapestry or yarn needle, some bobby pins, and your favorite medium-to-small sized hook.

I had a few issues with getting pictures from my phone to the computer and then into the right format, so the posting was delayed a day longer. But he has arrived. Next will be the Winnie the Pooh pattern I promised someone. But, I already gave my Winnie to its buyer, and am waiting at the moment for that person to send me a picture of him. In the mean time, you can have fun making Sparky, as inspired by this dog here:

Head (work in rounds: start with white)

make a magic circle.

1. sc 6 in mc (6)

2. sc 2 in eac sc  (12)

3. *sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (18)

4. *sc, sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (24)

5. *sc, sc, sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (30)

6. *sc, sc, sc, sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (36)

7-9. work even (36)

10. switch to brown *sc, sc, sc, sc, sc2tog* x6 (30)

11. *sc, sc, sc, sc2tog* x6 (24)

12. *sc, sc, sc2tog* x6 (18)


13. *sc, sc2tog* x6 (12)

14. sc2tog x6 (6)

fo, sew hole closed

nose (work in here is where my computer froze and consequently I was really grateful for automatic save-to-drafting rounds. This will be worked half a row brown, half a row white, with the exact color changes up to the crocheter’s discretion)

make a magic loop

1. sc 6 in mr (6)

2. 2 sc in each sc (12)

3. *sc, 2 sc in next sc* x6 (18)

4. *sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc* x6 (24)

5-9. work even (24)

fo leave reasonable length of tail of both brown and white for sewing. (you’ll need to sew with white on the white side and brown on the brown)

Ears (work in rows with brown) (make 2)

When starting the ears, leave a long piece of tail before the slip knot. The reason for this will be explained in the assembly section.

1. ch 7 (7)

2. sc in second chain from hook, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in next ch, sc in next ch. (8)

3. ch 1, turn. sc in firt sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc. (1o)

4. ch 1, turn. sc in each sc across. (10)

5. ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog (8)

6. ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog (6)

7. ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog (4)

8. ch 1, turn. sc2tog, sc2tog (2)

9. ch1, turn. sc2tog. (1)

fo, leave long tail for sewing. both tails will be used.

a little chart to help with the mass of words:

hopefully that makes it make more sense. it’s not the best of charts.

Body (work in rounds, and all white {unless there’s a particular dog you’re imitating, then feel free to add spots as you like. this particular dog just happens to be white on his body})(the side of the body with the decreases will be the belly and chest, and the side with none will be the back.)

magic ring

1. sc 6 in mr (6)

2. sc 2 in each sc  (12)

3. *sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (18)

4. *sc, sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (24)

5. *sc, sc, sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (30)

6. *sc, sc, sc, sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (36)

7-12. work even (36)

13. sc in next 14, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc in next 14 (33)

14. sc in next 12, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc in next 13 (30)

15-23. work even (30)

24. *sc, sc, sc, sc2tog* x6 (24)

25. *sc, sc, sc2tog* x6 (18)


26. *sc, sc2tog* x6 (12)

27. sc2tog x6 (6)

fo, sew hole closed

Front legs (worked in round, white, and with the same notions the body came with about color. in this case, the front of the legs will be where the decreases are.)

magic ring

1. sc 6 in mr (6)

2. sc 2 in eac sc  (12)

3. *sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (18)

4. work even. (18)

5. sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog x6, sc in next 3 sc (12)

6-15. work even (12)

Back legs (with the exact same notions as the front legs)

magic ring

1. sc 6 in mr (6)

2. sc 2 in eac sc  (12)

3. *sc, sc 2 in next sc* x6 (18)

4. work even. (18)

5. sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog x6, sc in next 3 sc (12)

6-13. work even (12)

14. *sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc* (18)

15-16. work even (18)

Tail (work in your own color choice — I chose white for this dog.)( rounds)

Magic ring

1. 4 sc in mr (4)

2. *sc, 2sc in next sc* x2 (6)

3. *sc, sc, 2sc in next sc* x2 (8)

4. *sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc* x2 (10)

5. *sc, sc, sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc* x2 (12)

6-8. work even. (12)

9. dec, sc in next 8 sc, dec (10)

10. dec, sc in next 6 sc, dec (8)

fo. leave semi-long tail for sewing.


The assembly of this little critter is a little bit different from some other amigurumi. Let’s start with the head. You’ll notice this is a ball. Tilt the ball so that the spot sits at a pleasing angle. The spot should take up about three-fifths of the face. Put a wad of stuffing into the nose (I like to roll the stuffing into a little ball before putting it in so it stays together while sewing). Position the nose a little tiny bit below center of the face, and pin in place with 2-4 bobby pins to hold it nice and straight while sewing. Take the brown yarn end, and sew the brown side of the nose down, plus two or three stitches on the white half. Take the white yarn end, and sew the white side of the nose down, plus two or three stitches on the brown half. Take out bobby pins.

Now bobby-pin an ear on, at a slight angle. Look at a dog or picture of a dog if you’re having trouble with the angle. sew the ear on with the end closer to the base of the ear. With the end at the tip of the ear, weave the thread through the forward-most edge of the ear towards the bottom. Pull slightly to make the ear bend a bit forward, in a jack-russel like manner. Repeat with ear number two.

This is the last hard part: sewing the head onto the body. Pick up body. Situat body so the flat side is facing up, and the fatter chest end is towards you. Put head on top of body, and squish down so that enough of the head and body touch for a reasonable neck. Bobby-pin all the way around. While sewing, make sure to keep in mind that the head and body need to look like they’re connected. It’s alright if you sew around a couple of times, as I sure did.

That’s the last hard part of the dog. The rest is smooth sailing. Stuff and sew on legs and tail. Embroider face with black. Add a bit of liveliness by putting white dots in eyes to symbolize light reflecting. Have fun. It’s done and should look like this: